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Itaewon /
Noksapyeong
Hannam-Dong
The area of Yongnam is large and diverse. My walk took me from Hannam-dong through Itaewon, Noksapyeong, Haebangcheon and finally Sookmyung.
Hannam-dong has become a fairly well known area in recent years, mostly because of the influx of celebrities, young professionals, business executives and UN diplomats living in the guarded apartment villages. The district is well curated with a modern sophisticated atmosphere. It’s often the hub for everything contemporary and cool in Seoul.
Itaewon adjacent to Hannam is quite the opposite. Known for being the Foreigner district, it’s bustling with many cultures, religions and experiences.
Nestled at the foot of Namsan mountain is Noksapyeong and HBC. They are some of the oldest neighbourhoods in Seoul. There is a nostalgic atmosphere when wandering the higgledy-piggledy streets. HBC especially is known for attracting artists and designers, as there is cheap real-estate for studios and galleries. However, these areas are constantly under threat of regeneration as many of the houses are deemed unsafe.
Sookmyung is a little area that is home to Sookmyungs women’s university. There is a sweet university vibe with lots of cheap eateries and shops to explore.
Route:
1. This route was often the continuation of the route I did from Seoul forest to Oksu-Dong. If you don’t want to do the long route skip to number 4. If you want to do the long route start at Seoul Forest exit 5, then walk through Seoul forest, past the deers, over the bridge. Turn right and follow the Han to a footbridge. Cross over the footbridge and follow the Han river once more until you meet Oksu Subway station. Instead of taking the stairs up to the station, go under the underpass, turn left and walk straight on up the hill until you reach Dokseodang-ro
2. Turn left and carry on along Dokseodang-ro until you see Hannam Hill apartments. Walk though the side of Hannam Hill until you reach Hannamdae-ro. I would have a little nosey round this area as it’s where all the diplomats and celebrities live. As well visit the Daerim Gallery next door to Hannam Hills.
3. Turn right, go straight up the hill, then right at the end of this road is a bridge next to BMW and opposite is the Blue Square theatre. Cross over the bridge and you have reached Hannam-dong. Before crossing the bridge check out Studio Concrete and Woolf and Social.
4. Short Route: come out of Hangangjin station exit 2. Turn left and go straight towards the police station. Next to the station are some stairs. Take these down on to Hannamdaero 27gil. I recommend going to Leemun Gallery, Nothing Written, Apt 33, Ferry Town Donuts, Wet Coffee and Underyard.
5. I would explore the streets of Hannam before coming out on to the main road (itaewonro) and carry on straight.
6. Along this road you will go from being in Hannam to being in Itaewon. Personally I never really stopped in Itaewon but just went from one end of the high street to the other.
7. When you reach the end, cross over the road to Noksapyeongdaero 40gil and go straight until you meet an underpass, go through the underpass and you will come out at Shinhungro.
8. It’s a little bit of a trek going up this hill, especially in hot weather, but the neighbourhood is really interesting. At the end of this hill you will be greeted with a crossroads. I would turn left and down the hill. Off to the side is the location of Haebandgchon traditional market. This is no longer a market but more a collection of Mom and Pop shops, cafes and galleries. Orang Orang cafe has a roof top that has one of the best views of Namsan tower and Seoul, and Cafe Tajagi is a fantastic spot to sit and watch the sunset.
9. Further down the hill is Storage books which is a super independent book shop with lots of books made by Korean artists. Keep following the Shunhungro until you meet the round about. Take the first exit and keep walking.
10. You will pass Yongsan high school and the old US military base. At the end of the road is the Sookmyung women’s university subway where the journey ends.
11. If you want to carry on a bit further you can cross over the road and go up the main high street towards the university, but beyond that is Hyochang park and some apartments which are not that interesting to look at.