Jongro

Jongro has been the centre of Seoul for 600 years. It's a mix of traditional palaces, 1960-80's builds, and the newly regenerated Cheonggyecheon stream. My friend Junho describes Jongro as "the Hongdae for Old People" - Hongdae being the trendy place where Korean teenagers hang - as it's often the place where the older generation meet with their friends and hang at the markets, Mom and Pop restaurants or stroll along the stream.
In recent years it's becoming more hip with the younger generation taking advantage of the cheap rents and starting their own businesses.
I love the clash between the grubby alleyways, the trendy hidden cafes and the historic Seoul.

My Route :
1. Get off at Euljiro 4ga exit 2.
2. There is an alleyway between building 177-1 and 53. Go down it on road changgyeonggungro 5gil. This is one of my favourite roads in the Euljiro 4 area. There is a cafe called Concrete Poetry, questionable opening hours but the atmosphere is great, especially at night time. Further down there is the N/A Gallery, very hip and cool up-and-coming artists are shown here. The owner is great to talk to.
3. Once you come to the end of the street, you will be confronted with Sewoon Mall. Pass the electronic shops and go up the stairs onto the 1st floor. Wander around the cafes and artist shops before stepping inside. The Sewoon Mall is a maze, I suggest viewing as much as possible. The 3rd floor opens out to a great open space, very much stuck in the 1970's. If you take the elevator to the 9th floor you're welcomed to the roof top. This has great view of all of central Seoul.
4. Come out the Sewoon Mall and cross the road to Jongmyo Gwangchang Park, go through the park to reach the side street. Follow the street until you meet Jongro 3ga subway, cross the road to exit 7, there you will be welcomed to Iksadong.
5. Iksadong is a traditional hanok village with lots of cafes and restaurants. I would avoid on weekends but it's great to walk around. Once you come out the Iksadong village pass Anguk station and walk down Eulgokro 3 gil and then cross the Cheonggyecheon.
6. You will reach Euljiro 3ga. I would suggest taking a trip to HanyakBang to end with a coffee and a cake. It's down a little alleyway, the interior of the cafe is from the Japanese occupation of Korea. It's like travelling into the past. The top floor has a big fish tank with Koi fish.
7. End the Walk by getting on the subway at Euljiro 3ga.